![]() The distributor when loosened can be rotated to adjust the timing of the engine. You can see where the distributor meets the head and the three bolts that hold the distributor housing in place. First, take some fingernail polish and make the location of the distributor. Make sure you have the wires correctly placed in the cap also. Remember, you want TDC (cylinder 1) and the distributor rotor pointing at the number 1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 lb-ft). After adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service Check Connector Jumped and engine at idle speed.ħ. Connect the two pin and eight pin connectors to the distributor.ĥ. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily.Ĥ. The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.ģ. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it.Ģ. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.ġ. 1 cylinder, then align the index mark on the housing with the index mark on the coupling.Ĥ. Check that the rotor is still pointing toward the No. Set the thrust washer and coupling on the shaft.ģ. Install the rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (toward the No. All remaining pictures correlate with the following directions.ġ. Once that is done, then follow the directions. However, I noticed it does not mention that the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley must be at top dead center (TDC). I'm also attaching a pic of the control module from one i found on eBay.Here are the directions which explain how to reinstall the distributor. Let me know if you need anymore info or more explanation. With everything plugged in, toggling the switch does not result in any sound being made (the typical clicking sound that occurred when i would lock or unlock the doors)ġ) how often does the power lock control module fail?Ģ) how can i remove the actuator to more easily test it?ģ) does the lack of that sound indicate actuator or this control module?Ĥ) would a failing driver's door actuator cause the other doors to not lock/unlock, or are most likely all 4 door hosed up? This seemed strange to me, but the wires which were supposed to (if I read the diagram correctly) indicate the switch locking/unlocking showed continuity without doing anything to the switch. I then, referencing the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, tested continuity from the control module to the driver's door lock actuator. That eliminated a bad wire from the switch to the module. I then reconnected the wires and tested them at the other end, where it plugs in to the Power Lock Control module and flipped the switch again. ![]() I also tested the switch and it showed continuity for both lock/unlock. The power door locks on my car are not locking/unlocking the doors. However, a locksmith fixed the lock and now the master key works fine, but the PDL problem persists. ![]() When this happened, this problem began occurring. One observation: The master key started giving some trouble when unlocking the driver's door, so I started using the valet key. All door locks will now open only when the driver's door is closed OR at least the door locking mechanism is in contact with the door frame (the little latch thing that "holds" the door in place once closed). Likewise, I have always been able to lock all doors with the driver's door open (holding the outside handle up as if opening the door, then pressing the interior lock button, not the switch). I have always been able to unlock all doors with the driver's door open, using the PDL switch. The power door locks work FINE when the driver's door is closed. My '97 Honda Civic (4 doors) power door locks were working properly until recently. ![]()
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